Darts, Pleats and Gathers

Darts

The dart is one of the most flexible and creative parts of the pattern. The space between the dart legs can be used in a variety of creative ways and is limited only by the imagination of the designer.

Types of darts:

Shoulder dart

Bust dart

Armhole dart

Centre front dart

Waist dart in skirt

Pleats

A pleat is an unstitched, folded dart held securely along joining seamline. It is a fold in the fabric that releases fullness. Pleats are used to increase stride room, or can also be used as a design. Pleats are found on skirts, bodices, sleeves, dresses,jackets etc. they are formed in a variety of ways. They may be folded and left unpressed or pressed, stitched or left unstitched. They may be grouped together with even or uneven spacing. Pleat depth may be single, doubled or tripled.

Types of pleats:

Knife pleats - Pleats are grouped and face in one direction.

Box pleats - Pleats are folded away from each other on right side of the garment

Inverted pleats - Pleats are folded to meet each other on the right side of the garment.

Accordion pleats - Pleats have folds resembling the bellows of an accordion. The pleats are close together and depth is equal from waist to hem.

Sunburst pleats - Pleats fan out and graduate from the waist. They are generally used on circle skir

Gathers

Gathers change the look of the basic garment, but do not affect the fit.

Types of gathers:

Gathers at shoulder

Gathers at centre front bust

Gathers at waist

Gathers at neckline