GARMENT FITTING

Introduction

Fit refers to how well a garment conforms to the three-dimensional human body. Good fit is crucial to one’s satisfaction. However, it is often easier to find clothes in right colours, prices and style that one likes than a well-fitted garment. The effect of a stunning design, gorgeous fabric and exquisite workmanship are destroyed if the finished garment doesn’t fit well to the intended wearer. Fit problems may be caused due to careless design, construction or may be the result of individual characteristics of an individual’s body. No two bodies are alike, and sometimes even the left and right halves of the same body are not mirror images of each other.

New technology promises to overcome these problems; a new computer system can optically measure an individual’s body in three dimensions. This data is then converted to a computerised, individual pattern, a man’s suit designed by this method is ready to be cut out and ready to sew within 7 minutes of receipt of the measurement data. The resultant garments fit accurately as the computerised scanner detects subtle nuances in the shape of the body that normal measurement systems are unable to read. These systems are on the stage of trial; but they would be costly and would take a long time to be readily available.

There are varying opinions on what comprises a good fit. Personal preferences regarding fit are governed by current fashion trends, cultural influences, age, sex, figure type, and lifestyle. The intended end use of the garment also affects the desired fit. For example, a person needs more ease for active sportswear than for spectator sportswear like in a tracksuit.

Balance

Occurs when the garment is in equilibrium. The right and left side of the garment appear evenly balanced or symmetrical, when viewed from front, back or side of the garment. A skirt is balanced if the legs of the wearer are in the centre and are not touching the front or back of the skirt. Balance relates to grain and line in the garment. A garment is out of balance when it is cut off grain, causing it to hang unevenly. Also if the line of the garment does not follow the line of the body, it will hang out of balance. Poor posture or lack of symmetry in the wearer’s body is another likely cause of it.

Set

Refers to a smooth fit without any undesirable wrinkles. Wrinkles caused by poor set cannot be ironed out, but result from the way the garment fits the wearer. Set wrinkles usually occur because the garment is too large or too small for the wearer and the garment hangs or sags when worn.

Grain

For a good fit the garment should be cut on the right grain or in other words on grain. (This has already been explained on How to calculate fabric ). An on grain garment hangs evenly and appears symmetrical. If the garment is off-grain , it will not hang straight. The garment and seam lines may twist or hang crooked because the fabric on each half of the garment behaves differently. Deviation in the grain line is a result of wrong cutting or stitching or even due to a poor posture of the wearer or figure irregularities that may interfere with the grain of the garment as it hangs on the body.

Line

Refers to the alignment of the structural lines of the garment with the natural lines of the body. Side seams of the garment should hang like a plumb line down the centre of the side of the body. It should be perpendicular to the floor. Centre front and centre back likewise should fall centre of the front and back of the body and be perpendicular to the floor. Darts and seams such as shoulder seams should visually appear to be straight lines that follow the body part they are intended to fit. Other seam lines should be gradually curving lines like necklines, waistlines, hiplines and armholes. Poor design or construction can result in an out of line garment. Even figure irregularities can distort the lines of the garment.

Ease

Refers to the amount of roominess in a garment. Ease is the difference between the measurements of the body of the intended wearer and the measurements of the garment. There are two kinds of ease: fitting ease and design ease . A garment must contain adequate ease beyond the actual measurements of the wearer to allow room for ordinary movements like walking, sitting, reaching out and even breathing. Ease in this context is called Fitting ease. Design ease is the extra style fullness added to the fitting ease. All the garments have fitting ease but design ease is optional as it is added purely for the sake of appearance and giving the garment its style.