HOW TO IDENTIFY THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRIC
Introducton of Fiber and Yarn
A fiber is the smallest part of a fabric. It is an individual, fine hair-like substance. Fibers are generally grouped and twisted together into continuous strands, which are called yarns. Yarns are then used to make various materials like woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and lace. Fibers can also be used directly to make a fabric without first being made into yarns. Examples of such fabrics are felt and non-woven fabrics.
Sewing Threads
Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns. They are made in such a way so as to pass through a sewing machine quickly, so as to form a stitch properly, and to function while in a sewn product without breaking for at least the useful life of the product. This would depend upon proper thread selection for the chosen fabric There are several features common to all woven fabrics. Knowledge of these fabric characteristics is needed to understand fabric structure and suitability in particular uses.
These features are as follows:
1. Selvage
2. Grain
a) Warp (Lengthwise Grain)
b) Weft (Crosswise Grain)
c) Bias
d) True Bias
3. Face and Back
4. Top and Bottom
TOP AND BOTTOM
Besides having a face and back, some fabrics have a top and bottom on the face side. This is caused generally by the weave or finish. Fleece, which is a fabric with a long nap, has a top and bottom to the face. It is made into garments with the nap brushed downwards. In fabrics like velvet and corduroy, the pile is not perfectly erect, but lies at an angle. The colour may turn from dark to light as the fabric is turned on a flat surface because of the difference in the angle of light reflection. With fabrics having an obvious top and bottom, the garment must be made with all its parts in the same top down or bottom down direction.
A fabric with a woven or printed figure in an upright position, however, can be cut in only one direction because in every piece forming the garment, the figure must be in upright position. Printed fabrics, which can only be used in one direction, are called directional prints.
FACE AND BACK
Fabrics have a face side and a backside. The face side has a better appearance and usually forms the outside of any garment. However, sometimes the back of the fabric is used as the outside of a garment for giving a special effect. Fabrics are generally packed so that the face side is protected during handling and storage. When the fabric is rolled or folded, the backside generally forms the outer surface of the bolt or roll.
GRAIN
Grain is the direction in which the yarn is woven or knit (lengthwise grain or warp, crosswise grain or weft).
a) Warp (Lengthwise Grain)
Yarns parallel with selvage and at right angles to the crosswise grain. It is the strongest grain and drapes best when perpendicular to the floor. Warp yarns can be distinguished from the weft yarns in the following ways:
Selvage : The warp yarns will always be parallel to the selvage.
Yarn Sizes : The warp yarns will usually be thinner.
Yarns per Inch : There are usually more warp yarns per inch than weft yarns per inch, making the fabric stronger in the lengthwise direction.
Stretchability : There is generally more stretchability in the widthwise direction.
b) Weft (Crosswise Grain)
Yarns woven across the fabric from selvage to selvage. It is the filling yarn of woven fabrics. Crosswise grain yields to tensi on.
c) Bias
A slanting or diagonal line cut or sewn across the weave of the cloth.
d) True Bias
The angle line that intersects with the lengthwise and crosswise grains at a 45-degree angle. True bias has maximum give and stretch, easily conforming to the figure’s contours. Flares, cowls and drapes work best when cut on true bias.
SELVAGE
The selvedge is a lengthwise edge of any fabric. It generally is ¼ to ½ inch wide and exists on both the edges of the cloth. The main purpose of the selvedge is to ensure that the edge of the fabric does not tear when the cloth is subject to any kind o stress and strain, during the finishing process. Various techniques are used to make the selvedge stronger than the main fabric. This includes using heavier warp yarns; more warp yarns per inch, plied warp yarns, greater twist in the yarns, and use of different weaves. The selvage is easy to identify, since it is constructed differently from the body.
WARP & WEFT OF CLOTH
There are many different cloth mills in our country, giving us a variety of designs, differing widths and types of woven cloth. It is important to buy material according to the type of garment to be stitched.
Width
There are mainly two types of widths available – single and double
Single: varies between 29” to 39”, for e.g. Poplin.
Double: From 46” to 60” or 102 cm to 152 cm for e.g. silk, drill, denim etc.
Right side of cloth: The right side of a cloth can be recognized from the selvedge (kanni).
There are punch hole marks on this edge of the cloth- the side on which these are in an upwards direction, is generally the right side of the cloth.
Printed cloth
If you are using a printed cloth with a flowery pattern or uneven design, then always mark and cut the cloth from the wrong side. Ways of recognising the wrong side of the garment are: a) punch marks b) the print will be slightly lighter. As soon as you recognise the wrong side of the cloth, put a cross ’x’ mark on that side with a marking chalk.
Self design cloth
This is woven using various shades of the same color and/or different thickness of the thread used for weaving. The wrong side can be recognised by virtue of being brighter.
Corduroy
The weave is such that one can see a raised rib on the right side of the cloth. One also needs to recognise the right way up for this type of a weave. You should gently rub your hand across the cloth. The direction in which the grains look like they are sitting should be the downward direction.
Warm cloth
This is always folded with the right side in. It is therefore easy to recognise by its crease marks. Apart from this the colour and texture of the cloth is also different.
Direction of weave of the cloth determines the lengthwise and breadth wise direction.
At 45degrees the cloth is known as true bias. The entire length is folded across the entire width of a square piece of cloth, to give a true bias. If it is folded at less than 45 degrees then it is not a true bias. Generally garments are cut on the lengthwise direction of the cloth.
Comments
Post a Comment