How to measure your dress

Introduction

Measurements that are needed for a pattern and how to take measurements properly have been covered in another topic. In this, one is going to learn to measure and draft a pattern from an existing garment. This requires a person to have the ability to measure correctly and accurately on a body and dress form. This is an advance skill and requires thorough knowledge of pattern development, as it is essential to understand the importance of the crucial areas. The higher skill is needed to be able to measure the flat fabric that has been converted into a three dimensional body.

Why do we need to measure an old / existing garment?

One may have a favourite shirt or a well-fitted sari blouse or any other garment, and that one has not been able to replicate or find the same fit again. The same fit has never been achieved; this may be due to a well-adjusted pattern or fitting or a different method of pattern drafting of the original garment. Another case may be that the person is unable to personally to give measurements and sends a garment as a sample. In any case the garment has to be measured for the purpose of getting the measurements.

Measurement Method

If the garment is a sample and cannot be opened out in separate pieces then one has to measure it carefully and measurements are to be recorded in the same manner, as one would measure the body or dress form. It is of paramount importance to do it in a systematic and careful manner. All the length-wise measurements should be recorded first and width-wise measurements be recorded next in order.

The length wise measurements that are needed to be measured are the maximum length of the garment, neck to waist, shoulder to neck depth, dart points if any, centre front length, centre back length, waist length if it is required, waist to hip measurement if required, hip to hem, for trousers inner leg seam and seat length are also required. For the sleeve measure, sleeve length, sleeve cap, cuff length or hem fold if required

The width wise measurements that are needed to be measured are the maximum width of the garment (whichever part of the garment it may be), Shoulder length, cross back, neck width, armhole to armhole measurement, front width, back width, front waist, back waist, front hip, back hip, front hem, back hem, dart lengths, dart widths, for trousers measure width at crotch level, knee level and hem. For sleeves measure sleeve width at bicep, elbow and wrist.

Drape the garment method

In this method each section of the garment is copied. Cut a piece of muslin larger than the part to be copied. Straighten the lengthwise and crosswise grains of the muslin. Place the lengthwise grain on the right side of the length of the garment like centre front or back and p” Pin in any darts, tucks, pleats or other fullness by the same amount that may be there in the garment and also in the same position. Locate and place a row of pins on all seam lines and edges. Mark the position of the buttonholes, buttons, plackets, collars and any other design detail that may be there. Mark the grain. Transfer all the seam lines, darts and others that are pinned with marking chalk or tailors chalk. When all the lines are in place, unpin the muslin from the garment. True the straight lines and curved lines with appropriate tools like ruler, French curve or hip curve. Add seam and hem allowances. Transfer the corrected muslin to paper. Place an identifying mark on each pattern piece.

Tracing the garment

If it is an old garment, and one has not achieved sufficient level of proficiency in pattern making then it is advisable to open the garment very carefully, with the help of seam ripper and separate each individual piece of the garment, at seams, darts, pleats and other types of fullness taking care so as not to tear of any seam allowance. All the seams like princess seam, yoke seam, darts or panels should also be opened. The pockets or decorations if any should be removed.

The separate pieces should be then carefully labelled and grain lines marked specially in case, pieces that need to be cut on Bias grain as in the case of Choli blouse, where the two front piece are always cut on bias for a better Fit. Use these cut-apart-sections as guide for your new pattern. The garment should be copied on muslin as an intermediate step and then transferred on thick pattern making paper. The garment should be well ironed before starting the procedure.

All the pieces should be cut on the same grain as the original piece; hence the grain of the pieces should be marked on the sketch as this will ensure that the garment has the same fall as the original.

It is worth the effort to carefully mark out the seam allowances, hemline folds and turn-backs like self-facings with tailors chalk. In case of a style, that one may want to make repeats of or that is to be cut on an expensive or a slippery fabric, then these allowances should be thread traced. Thread tracing is with basting stitches a seam allowance is marked, this is the permanent method of marking seam lines. This is generally done for silk fabrics or fabrics on which tailors chalk does not show.

Place marks at top of the sleeve and underarm seams, at the front and back armholes of sleeve and bodice and the corresponding notches of both sleeve and bodice this point would be where the curve changes from over arm to underarm.

Mark placement of buttonholes, buttons, pockets, points at which collars and cuff joins the garment. Mark any other garment detail that might be there.

The pieces then should be laid out on the fabric in the same manner as one would layout a paper pattern. Remember to do it with least wastage, pieces should be laid out together in such a manner that they fit within the confines of the fabric width as closely and efficiently as possible. For a more efficient and professional approach the same should be first traced on the thick pattern making paper and a muslin test fit done before one proceeds on the final fabric.