PLACKET, SLEEVES, FACING, COLLAR AND TUCKS

Plackets

Plackets are finished slits or faced openings designed on all types of garments-bodice, sleeve, skirt, dress, jacket, pant etc. plackets can be of any length and width, with rounded, pointed, stylized or blunt ends. Some plackets have buttons and buttonholes, others may not. The measurement can vary to create different effects.

Types of plackets:

Regular shirt placket (for men)

Half pointed placket

Slit opening with placket

Wing collar p lacket

Sleeves

Sleeves have always been used for changing the silhouette of a garment. Important sleeve silhouettes keep appearing, disappearing and reappearing over a period of time. There are two major classifications of sleeves: the set in sleeve cut separately and stitched into the armhole of the bodice, and the sleeve combined with part or the entire bodice.

Types of sleeves:

Cap sleeve - These jut away from the arm and can be shaped in a variety of ways. It is usually designed for a bodice, dress or blouse.

Puff sleeve - Puff sleeves are developed by adding fullness to the sleeve’s width. Puff sleeves can be of any length desired.

Bell sleeve - Bell sleeves have a smooth cap and an unconfined hemline flaring out in the shape of a bell. The bell may be developed into any length and flare desired.

Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve - This sleeve is developed by enlarging the biceps and cap area, tapering the fullness towards the elbow level.

Raglan sleeve - The raglan sleeve pattern is developed by including part of the neckline and armhole to complete the sleeve draft. The raglan sleeve can be designed for bodice, dress, blouse, jacket, coat etc.

Facing

A facing is a duplicate-shaped piece of fabric stitched to the outside edge of a garment and folded over to conceal the raw edges. Facings control the fit of the garment when the cut edge is bias or crosses the hollow areas above the bust.

Facings are planned as part of the pattern plotting. They are placed from the pattern before or after the design pattern has been developed. They vary in width and shape but generally are from 1 ½ to 2 inches around the neck and armhole.

Types of facings:

Separate facings : Individual facings for armhole and/or neck.

V neck facing

Square neckline facing

Scoop neckline facing

Combined facing : All-in-one armhole and neck facing.

Collars

A collar is the part of a garment that encircles the neck and frames the face, offering great opportunities for design variations. Collars can be developed close to or away from the neckline. They can be wide, narrow, flat, or high, and with or without an attached stand. The collar edge may be stylized or may follow a basic shape (round, curved, scalloped, square, pointed etc.). Collars can be convertible (can be worn closed and open, so that it lies flat across the chest when opened) or nonconvertible (stay in the same location whether garment is buttoned or unbuttoned).

Types of collars:

Peter pan collar

Sailor collar

Chinese collar

Shirt collar

Collar for square neck

Tucks

A tuck is a stitched fold on the right side of the fabric resembling a pleat. Tucks are used as design details and can be placed on any garment (top, skirt, dress, sleeve, pants etc.). Tucks can be placed in any direction (vertical, horizontal and diagonal) and may be of any width. They can be spaced close or far apart for varying effects.

Types of tucks:

Pin tucks

Shell tucks

Release tucks

Cross tucks

Space tucks