TYPES OF FIT

Hip pattern alterations

fitting problems in this are manifest themselves in wrinkling, pulling, sagging and uneven hemlines.

a) Small hips- Draw a vertical slash line from the waist to the hem of the skirt pattern. Draw a horizontal line from centre back to the side seam passing through the fullest part of the hip. Slash the pattern on both the lines and overlap width wise to remove excess without loosing at the waist, unless the dart intake can be taken out for ease. Overlap length wise to remove excess without loosing at the side seam. True the seam lines.

b) Large hips- Draw a vertical slash line from the waist to the hem of the skirt pattern. Draw a horizontal line from centre back to the side seam passing through the fullest part of the hip. Slash the pattern on both the lines and spread width wise to fullness; the added ease may be taken in the dart intake. Spread length wise to add fullness without adding at the side seam. True the seam lines.

Bust alterations

since the bust area is the most difficult to fit being the curviest part of the body. Check the garment; it is neither too tight nor too loose as big alterations are not very effective in this area especially for closer fitting garments.

(a) Bust with a large cup- as you are aware women with the same bust size have different cup sizes. This causes the garment to be tight over the bust area. Draw a vertical slash line from the shoulder passing through the bust point to the other edge of the pattern, passing through the waistline dart. Draw a perpendicular to this line at the bust point from centre front to the side seam. Slash on all lines and spread the pattern adding at the bust area without increasing at the shoulder. The added width at the side seam and waistline should be taken in a dart. If the dart intake is very big it is advisable to convert it into two darts.

b) Bust with a small cup- Draw a vertical slash line from the shoulder passing through the bust point to the other edge of the pattern, passing through the waistline dart. Draw a perpendicular to this line at the bust point from centre front to the side seam. Slash on all lines and overlap the pattern without reducing on the shoulder.

Sleeve alterations

the sleeve hangs from the shoulder and setting of the sleeve starts at the shoulder. Check that the armhole is neither too tight nor too loose otherwise a sleeve will not set in properly.

a) Wrinkling, pulling, straining, binding- this may be due to insufficient width across the sleeve cap, across the chest or back. Unpin the sleeve. Use some of the sleeve seam allowances at the armhole and sleeve cap for more width.

b) Tight armhole- drop the armhole by requisite amount. Add width at both the armhole and sleeve edge. Use some of the under arm seam allowances at sleeve and side seam.

c) Short sleeve stands out at the hem- this is due to insufficient length of the sleeve cap. Draw a slash line across the cap. Slash and spread to the needed amount. Correct the armhole curve.

d) Sleeve cap wrinkles across the top of the sleeve- this indicates too much length at sleeve cap. Draw a slash line across the cap. Slash and overlap to the needed amount. Correct the armhole curve.

e) Heavy arm- draw an inverted slash line on each side of the sleeve starting at under arm to the lower edge of the sleeve. Slash and spread the pattern to half the needed amount to each side at the underarm and tapering to nothing at the lower edge. Make corresponding changes in the armhole seam of the front and back bodice. Draw a slash line from the underarm to waistlines in front and back bodice. Slash and spread the pattern to the same amount as that added on each side of the sleeve, starting at the underarm and tapering to nothing at the lower edge.

f) Tight upper arm- slash the sleeve at the centre from shoulder point to the lower edge. Spread at the cap the necessary amount tapering at the lower edge.

Shoulder alterations

since the clothes hang from the shoulder their correct fit establishes the lines and shaping of the rest of the garment.

a) Sloping shoulders - on front and back pattern draw slash lines from neck to armhole edges. Slash and overlap the pattern at armhole edges to the needed amount. Pin the pattern piece or scotch- tape it to the required position. Redraw the armhole curves, lowering them at underarm by the same amount that you have taken in for corrections.

b) Square armholes - on front and back pattern, draw slash lines from neck to armhole edges. Slash and spread the pattern at armhole edges to the needed amount. Raise the armhole curve by the correction amount. Redraw the pattern on a new sheet or add paper to fill the gap

c) Round armholes - on front and back pattern, draw slash lines from neck to armhole edges. Slash and overlap the pattern at armhole edges to the needed amount. Redraw the armhole curves, lowering them at underarm by the same amount that you have taken in for corrections.

d) Broad shoulders - on front and back pattern draw L-shaped slash lines from mid shoulder to notches on the armhole. Slash and spread the pattern at shoulder to the needed amount. Redraw the pattern or insert paper in the gap. Correct the shoulder lines.

e) Narrow shoulders - on front and back pattern; draw L-shaped slash lines from mid shoulder to notches on the armhole. Slash and overlap the pattern at shoulder to the needed amount. Redraw the shoulder line.

Waist alterations

a) Thick waists reduce the size of the darts and or add at the side seam.

b) Slim waists increase the size of the darts and take some at the side seam. If difference is a small amount then the adjustments may be made in either in the darts or on the side seam. But in case the amount is sufficiently large then half of it should be altered in the dart and half in the side seam