5 steps of becoming a successful fashion designer

By Adams Emmanuel Your Choice Unisex Fashion

  1. HOW TO SEW AN ANARKALI CHURIDAR
Its a kinda churidar in which the top is a combination of a princess blouse and a umbrella skirt. Ive already discussed them seperately, plz check them for verification.
The blouse is similar to the sari blouse model but i didnt use the patti part (it depends, if u wish u can for the stiffness around the lower breast) 



Ive used 2 types of cloth one is a dark brown cloth for the breast(1m) and pant(2m) another one is the light cotton material(5m) for the umbrella part and the sleeves.
Ok the above picture is the breast part in which front and the back sides are cut and i have sewed 2 darts on either side of the front part one is opposite shoulders and other is on the armhole. Then join the shoulders.
Fine now lets come to the umbrella part, First u need to decide the lenght of the umbrella part. Mine is
breast length = 13" (" --> inch)
umbrella length = 30" + 5" for waist
plz check how to sew a umbrella frock , so for this u need to have a square shaped cloth(all sides equal length) and u have to fold it twice as in the above pic. As u are folding the cloth twice, the full size should be 70 inches length and breadth[(30+5)*2] .
U'll not get material of the same length and breadth so u need to cut the cloth and attach them according to the size. It will be best if u prepare a pattern first.
So the above is the umbrella bottom , i have used 5 inches for the waist and 30 inches for the length *(total length of the cloth is the twice of it i.e, 70 inch) next draw the semicircle at a distance of 5th inch and 35th inch and then cut them.
Now unfold the cloth u'll get an beautiful umbrella shape and make sure the joining of both parts are of equal size and then attach them as shown below...
How to cut and sew a armhole
Armhole is a very typical area where a perfect pattern and measurements help you to sew your sleeve perfectly.
If you find any difficulty in the armhole area, let me give you a detail description. In the above diagram (measurements in inch)
C-D = chest loose= (chest/4)+1.5"

A-F = neck breadth=(chest/12)+.5"

F-E = shoulder breadth= 2.5 or 3.5 inches

E-E' =armhole length (join E to E')

Then draw two curves at the distance of one and two inches as shown in the pattern. First you need to mark chest loose then mark the neck breadth and the shoulder breadth , next mark a straight line from E to the chest loose line(CD) i.e E-E' , that gives you the armhole length and E'-D is armhole breadth.
Next thing is that you have to draw two curves at a distance of one inch and two inch. The outer curve is at a distance of two inch and thats the mark where you have to cut for the back part of the blouse. The inner curve which is at a distance of one inch is the mark for the front part and you have to cut the armhole at the inner curve. This is how you have to cut the armhole. I hope it helps you get a better understanding.ARMHOLE (DEPTH OF SCYE)
To know the arm hole (Depth of scye) , the breast or chest measurement should be taken and from it the armhole is measured for both men and women.The tailors use this type to measure the armhole (depth of scye).
The depth of scye is measured through various styles , lets see some of them.

CHEST MEASUREMENT ARM HOLE

24 to 30 inch = (chest/4) + 1(1/4) inch
30 to 28 inch = (chest/4) + 1(5/8)inch
> 38 inch = (chest/5) - 1/2 inchARMHOLE (DEPTH OF SCYE)
To know the arm hole (Depth of scye) , the breast or chest measurement should be taken and from it the armhole is measured for both men and women.The tailors use this type to measure the armhole (depth of scye).

The depth of scye is measured through various styles , lets see some of them.

CHEST MEASUREMENT ARM HOLE

24 to 30 inch = (chest/4) + 1(1/4) inch
30 to 28 inch = (chest/4) + 1(5/8)inch
> 38 inch = (chest/5) - 1/2 inchSTITCH BABY CHEMISE
This is baby chemise. Let's see how to stitch it.
This is the stitching pattern for the baby chemise. The readymade measurements for the baby chemise follows.

chest = 60 cm, waist = 55 cm, narrow waist = 25 cm, full length = 55 cm
a-b = full length = chest - 5 = 55cm
a-c = narrow waist = (chest/2)-4 = 25 cm
a-d = armhole = (chest/4)-2.5 = 12.5 cm
d-e = chest loose = (chest/4) + 2.5 = 17.5 cm
b-f = hem bottom = (chest/2)+10 = 40 cm
a-i = shoulder = ab/2 = 12.5 cm
a-j = neck breadth = (chest/12) + 1.5 = 6.5 cm

With the help of the above pattern draw the stitching pattern. First fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise , next place the stitching pattern on the cloth, mark the edges using marking chalk.
Cut the cloth carefully. You will get two seperate portions , front part and back part. Now join the shoulders. Next stitch the neck part using crosspiece . If you want , you can attach sleeves. Next join two sides and the final thing is to fold and stitch the bottoms and sleeve.SEW BLOUSE
This is a yellow v neck Blouse. The blouse comprises of two parts , the breast part and the waist part.
First stitch the breast part then the waist part. The image below is the back part of the top . You can use your own measurements to stitch the top. To get a clear idea draw a stitching pattern.
Fold the cloth breadthwise first then lengthwise , place the stitching pattern and cut along the edges. I've not cut the back neck , if u wish to have a different neck you can try. Measure and cut the sleeves. I did not attach sleeves , if you wish you can stitch.
This is the front part, I've cut a long v neck . Have a carefull understanding of how to cut and stitch the cloth. Two main darts have been stitched in the front part to get the cone shape to make it comfortable to the breast part.
I've stitched cross piece to the necks. I've stitched contrast white colour cloth to the neck borders so that it looks attractive. Always stitch a contrast neck border. If u want to cut neck of different shapes , you can do it.
The two main darts are optional , if you wish you can have else dont stitch. If you want to have a tight , exact fit breast part then you have to stitch darts. You can stitch three darts for exact cone shape else stitch two darts as shown in the image for you to have a u shape. Nowdays people like only u shape darts.
After you finish the top part, next the bottom part has to be cut. The waist can be a shape of your desired style. I've used a simple flard skirt type , you can use a umbrella cut shape skirt or any other type.
After you cut the skirt , first fold the bottoms of both pieces. Then join both side of the 2 pieces.The next thing is to join two parts . The joining parts of both parts have to be equal else you cannot stitch them properly.
Measure both joining parts , if you find the skirt part bigger than the breast part, stitch the excess part of the skirt equally on both sides.Finally join both pieces and the blouse is ready.
This is the blouse which i've stitched in my measurement. I'm little fat so the blouse looks big . I've stitched it a bit loose. i just took about two hours to stitch this blouse. I took lot of time in stitching the neck parts.
The neck parts are the important finishing part of the dress. They highlight the entire dress, If they aren't stitched well , then the whole dress will collapse. Always take time and stitch the neck part . Be slow in your sewing machine while you stitch the neck part.How to cut and sew a armhole
Armhole is a very typical area where a perfect pattern and measurements help you to sew your sleeve perfectly.
If you find any difficulty in the armhole area, let me give you a detail description. In the above diagram (measurements in inch)

C-D = chest loose= (chest/4)+1.5"

A-F = neck breadth=(chest/12)+.5"

F-E = shoulder breadth= 2.5 or 3.5 inches

E-E' =armhole length (join E to E')

Then draw two curves at the distance of one and two inches as shown in the pattern. First you need to mark chest loose then mark the neck breadth and the shoulder breadth , next mark a straight line from E to the chest loose line(CD) i.e E-E' , that gives you the armhole length and E'-D is armhole breadth.

Next thing is that you have to draw two curves at a distance of one inch and two inch. The outer curve is at a distance of two inch and thats the mark where you have to cut for the back part of the blouse. The inner curve which is at a distance of one inch is the mark for the front part and you have to cut the armhole at the inner curve. This is how you have to cut the armhole. I hope it helps you get a better understanding.

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