How to make a successful Fashion designer

In this edition we are going to discuss all the different types of hemming, as well as how and where you can apply them.

Hemming

Used on almost every garment. Can be replaced by a simple running stitch also, but to enhance the beauty of a garment, hemming is used as a most important stitch. This is almost invisible on the right side of the garment and as very small stitches on the wrong side.

Method: As single thread is put in the needle and a very small margin of the cloth is taken or a single strand taken from the turned in surface. The needle is passed through the single strand and through the surface of the cloth to give a neat edge and finishing touch. Used on sleeves, neck, skirts etc.

Slip Hem

Similar to simple hemming but the stitches are taken at a little distant from each other. It’s usually used on slippery materials like silk, nylon etc.

Method: As the name signifies, this stitch is similar to hemming but in a more lateral (slipping) position. Used to finish cuffs, necklines etc.

Narrow Hem

Stitches taken very close together. Usually to finish men’s garments like shirts, coats etc. It is considered to be very strong.

Method: Stitches are put very close together using a single thread. The turned in part is firmly stitched in place using this method of taking the needle in and out of the turned in and rest of the garment.

Blind Hem

As the name suggests this stitch is almost invisible to the naked eye. It has to be done with great care to give a neat finish. It is used mainly in men’s wear.

Method: The turned in part is so closely stitched to the main body of the garment so as to take only one strand of thread at a time giving it almost an invisible feel.

Circular Hem

A type of hem only, but used on bias cut cloth. When one needs to turn a straight edge on a bias cloth, it is difficult to do so, that is when this stitch comes in handy. Used on umbrella cut frocks etc. when the edge of the garment is always cut on bias.

Method: Bias cut cloth is once turned inside used. The amount of cloth to be turned is turned and a temporary stitch is put in loosely. The thread is then pulled a little to give small gathers. The gathers are then spread out and then hemmed into place.

Rolled Hem

Used on fine materials. Edging of saris, edges of rills, puff sleeves etc are finished using rolled hem.

Method : Similar to simple hemming but instead of taking a straight band of cloth as the trend in portion a small edge is rolled between the thumb and forefinger and the stitch is put on the inside surface.

Fine Running Stitches

One can see only fine dots of this stitch from the right side of the garment. Used mainly for finishing fine garments like sari edges.

Method: The needle is taken out from a predetermined distance. The place from where the needle comes out, then determines the point from where a single strand of thread is picked up for the next stitch. The shape of the garment has to be kept in mind while unraveling this stitch.

Padding Stitch

Used to set layers of cloth. It is used mainly in coats.

Method: Put at an angle this stitch resembles a temporary stitch. The first line is taken at a certain angle and in the next line the angle is in the opposite direction. The stitch seems like it is standing up.

Saarjoo

Used in materials where the strands of cloth come out. The garment is not stitched in these cases. Used in tricot trousers etc. This stitch is usually not opened. It is used to keep allowance in garments.

Method: Used with a single thread in the needle. The needle is taken out at an angle. Stitches are taken at some distance from each other and kept loose. You should keep in mind that the thread does not come out at the time of pulling the thread.

Buttons

The various types of buttons available in the market differ in that they have different number of holes – 2 or 4. The method for fixing them remains the same. The spot where the button needs to be fixed is determined and then the needle is taken out first from one and then the other to properly fix the button. There should be a little looseness in the stitch so that the button can be easily passed through the button hole.Button Hole

Of utmost importance in the tailoring trade, as it is used on almost all types of garments – ladies, men’s and children. There is a need to keep an opening somewhere on the garment for ease of wearing and taking off. Most of such openings are closed with the help of buttonhole stitches. The button hole is always m ade on the top portion.

The buttonhole stitch

Is used to finish the button hole. It is made on two or more layers of cloth. The button hole has a slight curve on one side known as the fan and an edge on the other known as the bar.

Method: First choose the distance between each button hole. Then keeping the diameter of the button in mind, use the tip of a scissor to cut holes in the cloth. To ensure that no, loose strands come out finish the edge with a temporary stitch. Always cut the button hole in the direction of the grain line. Then using a single thread finish the edge with a buttonhole stitch keeping a little extra tension on the ‘fan’ side to make a kind of chain stitch is then pressed down once the buttonhole is finished.Press

Buttons

These are metal buttons with one part having a hole and the other a nail to fit into the hole. The nail part is always put on the top and the one with the depression on the bottom. This is also affixed using the button hole stitch.

Back Stitch

Used to attach two pieces of cloth together, by using a handmade stitch. It has been used since the time when the machine was not yet in invented. This is believed to have greater flexibility and is very strong. This stitch can also be used easily on a bias cloth. Most important use is on churidar pajamas, the stitch is different from its right and wrong side.

Method: A crease is created on the edge of the two pieces of cloth that need to be joined together. A small margin is taken on top and bottom and small stitches taken close together.

Hook Eye

An opening can be closed with other methods apart from a button and buttonhole. One of these is the hook and eye. There are hooks of different sizes available to suit different purposes and garments like trousers or blouses. The hook is usually fixed half a point behind the edge of the belt. This is fixed using the buttonhole stitch. It is fixed from two edges below and one point above like a bow. The simple hooks are best used with an eye made from thread by hand, using a button hole stitch. The big hooks used for trousers usually come with a ready made eye of metal which is also affixed using a buttonhole stitch.