BASIC TERMS USE IN TAILORING

  As a good tailor you should know all terms use in fashion world.

In this article I am going to discuss all the terms use in fashion. 

SEAM ALLOWANCE

The margin kept for stitching the garment is known as seam allowance. This means that after drafting the neck, armhole, waist and chest, about 4cm margin is kept and then another line drawn which is the stitching guide – this is known as the seam allowance.

INLAYS

The extra cloth kept after the looseness in a garment is known as inlays. This helps in increasing the size of the garment if so required.

TURNING

The extra margin kept at the edges for turning in and finishing the garment is known as turning.

HONEY COMB

A variation of smocking. The amount of material required for this is a little less than that for smocking. The space between stitches in smocking is a little less, whereas here the distances are greater. Embroi- dering over the gathers to hold them in place is done here also. This takes the shape of a honey comb upon finishing.

SMOCKING

Creating a design on a piece of cloth by first putting loose stitches in straight lines with the help of a graph paper, pulling gently on the threads and then embroidering over the gathers thus created, is known as smocking. Used as a decorative stitch.

SHEARING

To shorten a part of a garment, without cutting off the extra piece of material, one can create folds on the top half and then hide them by attaching a trim like lace, piping, or a cord. This process is known as shearing.

SCYE UP AND SCYE LOWER

Used particularly for coat sleeves. The point where the armhole attaches to the sleeves to maintain the correct balance of a sleeve is known as scye. The point at the back is known as scye up and the front part is known as scye lower.

YOKE

The part of the garment from the waist upwards, given a particular shape like round, square, triangular and attached separately is known as yoke.

POCKET STAY

The straight tape attached to the inside of a pocket opening to keep it upright is known as pocket stay. This tape is the straight selvedge side.

JETTING

When an extra piece of cloth is attached to give strength to a pocket and then to hide this extra piece, another piece of the same fabric as that of the main garment is attached, then it is known as Jetting.

BUTTON

BUTTON STAND: The piece of band on top of which a button is affixed is known as button stand.

BUTTON HOLE: The opening made through which a button can be passed is known as button-hole.

LINING

An extra cloth attached under the main garment is known as lining. Used mainly under transparent materials, lining gives the garment extra strength as well as finishing.

FLAIR

These are of two types – Straight and umbrella cut. The straight flair is attached at the waist by the help of gathers, tucks or pleats and the part that is left loose is called the flair. Also used to describe lower body garments which have a big opening at the bottom and no demarcation for knees.

FALL OF COLLAR

The part of collar that is attached above the band or the broad part that falls below or outwards from the band or stand is known as the fall of collar.

PLACKET

An opening finished by keeping an overlap is known as a placket. Examples are a frock back or a kurta neck.

STAND OF COLLAR

When the collar is put against the garment and the place where the fold happens-the part that comes beneath is known as stand of collar. This is the part that touches the neck.

GATHERING

Means to put pleats or to gather a piece of cloth by putting a loose running stitch and then pulling the thread. Look good when used on puff sleeves, skirts, ladies garments and children’s garments according to fashion.

WELT

Also known as fich. This is a broad band on the pocket of a coat. This is stitched from both sides. A pocket which has the stitch on the outside is used on shorts, trousers, slacks, T-shirts etc.

SLIT

A type of opening which does not have any overlapping. Used in women’s garments like shirts, skirts etc.

TUCKS

Folding the cloth a little from the right side and stitching in a straight line is known as putting a tuck. This is also used to enhance the beauty of the garment or to provide a better fit. If these stitched lines appear of the thickness of a pin then they are known as pin tucks.

VENT

A type of closing which is stitched at the top but open at the bottom. Generally put at the back. The two pieces of the garment being held together by this seem to overlap each other. The stitch is not visible from outside.

OPENING

The space kept in the garment for ease of wearing and taking off, generally without any overlapping is known as opening.

DART

Without spoiling the shape of the garment, and in order to give a perfect fit, a small amount of cloth is folded and stitched with a single strand till the other end. This process is called putting a dart. It is used at various places on the garment like bust dart, waist dart etc. to give fitting or fullness to shape.

FISH DART

This is put at the back in lower body garments like shorts, trousers, slacks. Its shape is like a fish, hence the name. It takes an angular shape after being put straight for some distance.

FACING

Finishing an edge of the garment- neckline, armhole, or other opening by attaching a separate piece of cloth (of same or different fabric). This piece is cut in the same shape as that of the opening.

FALSE FACING

A broad strip of cloth attached to an edge and turned inside to finish the edge instead of hemming is known as false facing. A thinner strip of cloth being attached is known as false hem.

PLEATS

A fold taken from the inside of a garment and held in place by a stitch is known as a pleat. These are of many types like straight pleats, inverted pleats etc. These are used either as a design element or to provide fullness or fitting.

CLOSING

Means attaching a means of closing an opening – it could be a hook, a button, a zip or a cord.

LAYING

The fabric is first out spread out properly, without any creases or folds and only then is the pattern traced out and the fabric cut. The laying of the fabric properly is known as laying.

CUT ON DOUBLE

When the fabric is folded before cutting, it is known as cut on double or on fold. Most parts of the garment –front, sleeve, back are cut in this manner.

LAPEL

When the collar hangs separately from the over lapping and is folded outwards, it is known as lapel.

BALANCE MARKING

Points marked with the help of a tracing wheel are known as balance marks. Sometimes one needs to put the marks on the right side of the fabric, putting these marks with tailor chalk or a marking pencil, may spoil the cloth. That is when the tracing wheel is used. The tracing wheel can also be used to mark various layers of cloth at one go – for pocket positions etc.

BAGGING

Garments that take the shape of a bag like slacks, pyjamas, which are tight at the knee or elbow. These are always in the danger of the crease opening at the elbow/knee joint due to movement. A small bag like pouch is formed at these places, if the garment is too tight. This is known as bagging.

BALANCE MARKS

Marks made on the various pieces of the garment to maintain a balance while stitching. Sometimes the pieces not marked may not be matched properly at the time of stitching giving the garment an odd shape. Used mainly to keep a balance when joining knees, waist, hip etc. A balanced garment fits well and hence it is essential to use these marks, even when one has become a master at tailoring.

BALANCE NOTCHES

These are small cuts made at the time of tracing the pattern. Made mainly to mark out pleats, darts, overlapping. Also used at times to mark the side seams, waist, and knees.

BRIDLE

When the lapel turns outwards in a collar, like in a coat the large fold is cut on bias, and to avoid it flapping a straight tape is attached at the edge. This is known as the bridle.

INTER LINING

An extra layer put in between the main garment and the lining is known as inter lining. For e.g. Buckram, Tetron etc.

BASIC RULES OF STITCHING

Before you have complete knowledge of running a sewing machine, it is advisable not to attempt running a sewing machine. Before threading a needle, before lowering the pressure foot, learn the correct way of putting your feet on the foot pedal of the sewing machine. Only then start practicing running the sewing machine on a rough piece of cloth or paper. After you have mastered the correct speed of running the machine, only then you should proceed further.

1. Sit at a height appropriate enough, so that your feet reach the foot pedal comfortably.

2. Sit straight while stitching. Do not bend your head over the sewing machine while stitching. Throw light on the sewing area from your left side.

3. Sit in front of the machine in such a manner such that the centre of your body is in line with the needle.

4. Place your left foot on the upper edge and right foot on the lower edge of the foot pedal and then start operating the machine.

5. Only once you have mastered running the sewing machine smoothly, you should start practicing by running the needle on a plain piece of paper. There should be no jerks while running the machine.

6. Before trying your hand for stitching a piece of cloth, you should have adequate practice in running the machine on a piece of paper, by running the machine over straight lines and curves drawn on a piece of paper.

7. Take care that you keep fingers away from the pressure foot and needle while the sewing machine is in operation.

8. You should first familiarize yourself with the technique of threading a machine and only then with running the machine. The wheel of the machine should always run towards you. Practice running the machine smoothly.

9. Remember to keep your machine oiled perfectly. For this, you should put one or two drops of oil on all moving parts everyday. Some people believe in putting a lot of oil on the machine, but this does not serve any purpose, albeit results in making your sewing cloth messy. It is instead advisable to put only a few drops of oil, but to do it on a regular basis.

10. The thread from the top and bottom should not hang out more than 10-12 cms or 4-5 inches.

11. After opening a wrong seam wash the cloth so that the holes formed by the needle get closed up.

12. Before beginning to sew a garment, mark out all the pieces carefully and arrange your lining, matching thread and buttons. These markings should be with tailor’s chalk on the wrong side of the garment. They will also help to identify wrong side from right, apart from helping you match the different pieces and seams.

13. Iron all the pieces of the cloth before beginning to sew.

14. You should keep the left and right side of the garment in mind while sewing.

15. The major part of the cloth should be left hanging on the outer, i.e. left side. Keeping the cloth on the right side, interferes with sewing and also has the danger of the cloth getting entangled in the belt or oil drops soiling the cloth. The cloth may also fall on the footrest and interfere with sewing.

16. While sewing, never pull the cloth by hand. It should move forward on its own. Pulling the cloth may either tear the cloth or break the needle.

17. While nearing the end of the stitching edge, slow down the machine gradually or else the seam might slip ahead. This is not advisable. Moreover, put a double seam near the edge to give more strength.

18. After finishing the seam, raise the pressure foot and cut the thread with a scissors. Do not pull the thread with your hand.

19. If it is heavy cloth, the stitch length should be longer, similarly if it is fine cloth keep the stitch length short. There is a stitch regulator in every machine. Study the markings on the regulator carefully and loosen or tighten the screw accordingly to alter the stitch length. You should alter the thread and needle also according to the thickness of cloth. To know the relation between needle, thread and cloth, study the accompanying table.

20. Before beginning to sew, keep two/three bobbins filled with thread ready for use, so that work flow does not get affected if a bobbin finishes.

21. Thread should be matching with the cloth and the thread in the bottom bobbin and top should be of the same shade.

22. If you are using a machine with hand attachment, the machine should be kept at a height of at least 15 to 30 cm (6 to 12 inches). Do not keep the machine on the floor. Always use a stool so that it is easy to move the handle of the machine. The height should be such so that you do not have to bend over the machine.

23. Keep the machine on a straight surface. Keeping the machine on a rough surface, may cause the parts to be spoiled.

24. After finishing stitching for the day, keep a piece of cloth, in the machine, so that no dust enters the machine.

25. Always loosen the stop motion of the machine after finishing sewing so that no child may run the machine by mistake.

26. Take care to keep the cloth to be stitched as well as the clothes you are wearing away from the wheel of the foot machine.

27. There should be more cloth hanging outside and less towards the inside so that no unnecessary creases are formed.

28. If working by hand the cloth should be held between three fingers and your thumb, never between the knees.

29. Always use a thimble, while working by hand, so that it is easier to push the needle and your fingers do not get spoiled.

30. Hold the needle in your right and cloth in your left hand. The thread in the needle should not be more than 27 inches long. If you need to put a double thread, first fold the thread and then put, do not double the thread once you have threaded the needle.