In this edition, we are going to discuss about stitching. Introduction Temporary stitches are those that are used to loosely attach two pieces of cloth to ensure that pieces fit together, darts are appearing at the right points. These stitches are opened out after stitching the garment. These also help to keep pieces in places while being stitched. Thread Marks This is a type of temporary stitch, which is removed after the garment is stitched. This is used in situations where you cannot use a pencil or chalk, to mark the cloth. Sewed in a very loose manner, one stitch is small, and the next one larger, Used mainly on garments where many trials etc are required before final fitting. It is usually made with a double thread, but is always made on a double layered cloth. The stitches are adjoining to each other. Made in a loose manner, the needle is taken out from a determined distance and then again inserted in the same position and then the second stitch taken with a certain...
Darts The dart is one of the most flexible and creative parts of the pattern. The space between the dart legs can be used in a variety of creative ways and is limited only by the imagination of the designer. Types of darts: Shoulder dart Bust dart Armhole dart Centre front dart Waist dart in skirt Pleats A pleat is an unstitched, folded dart held securely along joining seamline. It is a fold in the fabric that releases fullness. Pleats are used to increase stride room, or can also be used as a design. Pleats are found on skirts, bodices, sleeves, dresses,jackets etc. they are formed in a variety of ways. They may be folded and left unpressed or pressed, stitched or left unstitched. They may be grouped together with even or uneven spacing. Pleat depth may be single, doubled or tripled. Types of pleats: Knife pleats - Pleats are grouped and face in one direction. Box pleats - Pleats are folded away from each other on right side of the garment Inverted pleats - Pleats are folded to meet e...
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In this edition we are going to discuss all the different types of hemming, as well as how and where you can apply them. Hemming Used on almost every garment. Can be replaced by a simple running stitch also, but to enhance the beauty of a garment, hemming is used as a most important stitch. This is almost invisible on the right side of the garment and as very small stitches on the wrong side. Method: As single thread is put in the needle and a very small margin of the cloth is taken or a single strand taken from the turned in surface. The needle is passed through the single strand and through the surface of the cloth to give a neat edge and finishing touch. Used on sleeves, neck, skirts etc. Slip Hem Similar to simple hemming but the stitches are taken at a little distant from each other. It’s usually used on slippery materials like silk, nylon etc. Method: As the name signifies, this stitch is similar to hemming but in a more lateral (slipping) position. Used to finish cuffs, neckl...
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